Sawyer shearlings were generally considered the best domestic maker of shearling coats. The company was in business from the late-1800's to their demise in the early 1990's. They were located on Coombs Street in Napa, CA (tanneries, production area, warehouses, ofices...buildings are still standing, but are now parceled out office space). The EPA (and other special interest groups), along with rising manufacturing costs, finally killed them off due to the chemicals/wastes resulting from the leather tanning process.

The company tried to adjust by sourcing off-shore tanned hides and emphasizing lambskin jackets and coats (non-shearling), made in Korea. This staved off the inevitable for a few years, until their California plant closed and their machinery was sold and exported to India.

In later years, the name changed hands a few times, but the original Sawyer coats, sometimes sold under private labels as well, like this one (Lakeland), were the genuine Sawyer shearlings produced in Northern California.

You can spot a Sawyer pretty easily, as they used larger, higher quality pelts (California Spring Lamb...big panels/less seams), high quality stitching (not this wrapped stitch crap that is a telltale sign of many imports), horn buttons (though many accounts opted to use leather or plastic buttons). Not a stiff coat, but usually a bit heavier shearling than what today's tastes dictate. If you like old school shearlings, you can't do better. A rare treat, occasionally found on e-bay.